Table of Content
 

 
Neck Lines
 
Facing
Blas facing
Shaped facing
Expanded facing
Piping
Enclosing of edges
Binding
Banding
Important hints to avoid trouble while stitching

Sleeves

Sleeves
Variation of basic sleeves and sleeve finish
Set-in sleeve variation
Bishop sleeve
The leg-o-Mutton
Bell sleeve
Sleeve bottom finishes

Collars

A collar
Flat collar
Rolled collar
Stand collar
Shawl collar

Four Panel & Voke Skirt

Skirt
Four panel skirt
Yoke skirt
Length of opening
Trimmings
Pockets
Straight waistband
Contour waistband or shaped waistband
Proportion of human body
Bones, joints and their movement
Measuring techniques
Measurement charts

Pleated Skirt

Pleat
Construction  features of pleats
Three types of pleates
Knife pleat
Box pleat
Inverted pleats

Layered Skirt

Layered skirt
Waist
Elastic waist band
The woven elastic
Waistline facing
Bottom
TREADLEMOTORIZED SEWING MACHINE
Spool pin 
Thread guide
Tension disc
Take up lever
Face plate
Needle bar
Presserfoot
Bobbin case
Presser foot lifter
Stitch regulator
Bobbin winder
Stop motion screw
Slide plate
Needle plate
Feed dog
Sewing machine needles
Care and maintenance of the machine
Cleaning
Oiling
Overlock machine – 3 thread
Overlock machines
Parts of the machine
Feed ratio nut regulator
Threading of overlock machine

Tops

Tops
Sleeves
Bodies
Pockets
Trimmings
Tucks
Types of tucks

Maxi

Bodice skirt
Sleeve
Opening
Stitch formation/troubleshooting
Adjusting the stitch length
Selection of thread and needle
Trobleshooting while stitching with machine

Punjab salwar & Salwar with waist band

The salwar kameez
Tools for pattern making
Drafting tools
 

Surwar(churidars)

Churidars
Types of needles
Thread specification
Paper shears
Tailor’s shears
Pinking shears
Tailor’s chalk

Parallel & Pattiyala

Pattiyala salwar
Parallels
Calculation of material
Width of cloth
Design of fabric
Dress design
Body measurement

Bell bottom salwar

Bell bottom salwar
Zipper plackets
PAPER PATTERN AND LAYOUT
Pattern construction
Work and safety precaution for creating and cutting the paper pattern
Layout

Dothi salwar

Dothi salwar or cowl salwar
Sources and features of fibres
Basic types of weave
Plain weave
Twill weave
Non-woven fabrics
Napped fabrics
Identification of fabrics
Burning test
Dry tearing test

Kameez with dart

Standard dart(half dart)
Points to remember when stitching darts

Princess line & six piece kameez

DESIGNING THE PRINCESS LINE KAMEEZ

Kali kameez or kurtha

Kali kameez or kurta
Material
Decoration
Fabric
How to check fabric designs
Cutting fabric with nap or one-way design
Laying if check and stripe fabric
Even stripes
Matching stripes checks at seams
Care of fabrics
Selection of cloth for different figures

Overlap kamez

Tassels
Rope or cord
Fancy buttons
Motifs
Blas trimmings

Umbrella kameez

DESIGNING
Calculation of material requirement for umbrella or bell shaped garment

Plain blouse(choli) & plain blouse with waist belt

Full length of garment
How to measure
Neck
Chest
Waist
Seat or hips
Half back
Shoulder
Sleeve length
Knotted choli
Cut-choli or blouse with waist belt

Katori and semi katori

Katori and semi katori
Criteria for good fit
Comfort
Seam lines must be in correct position
Try-on fitting and adjustment
Fit for follar/neckline
Fit the sleeve
In trousers

Raglon choli

Raglon choli
Pattern Alteration
Taking key measurement
Making alteration
Length alteration
Width alteration
Depth alteration
BLOCKPATTERNALTERATIONS

High neck blouse

High neck blouse
DEFECT AND REMEDIES
Fitting principles
Reasons for defects
Armhole
Detect
Remedy
Neckline

Kimono sleeve

Kimono sleeve
Designing the kimono sleeve tops
The gusset piece (Hindi,French)

Halter neck

Lining and interlining
Interlining
Iroining
Ironing  board/pressing table(foldable)
Tailor’s ham
Point presser
Sleeve board
Needle board
Safety precautions
Techniques for pressing during construction
 

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